Marché des Enfants Rouges sits at 39 Rue de Bretagne in Haut Marais (3rd arrondissement) — Paris's oldest covered market still operating, founded in 1615. In 2026 it works less as a produce market and more as a multicultural food hall: Moroccan stalls, Japanese counters, Chez Alain Miam Miam sandwiches and shared tables in the courtyard. Handy for an informal lunch minutes from Place des Vosges and L'Ambroisie. Open Tuesday to Saturday (Sunday until 17:00); closed Monday. Weekends expect queues and few free tables.
Market history
Founded in 1615 by Louis XIII, Marché des Enfants Rouges takes its name from a 16th-century orphanage whose children wore red cloth (enfants rouges). For centuries it served as the Marais neighbourhood market. In the 1990s residents blocked demolition — the market was listed as a historic monument and reopened in 2000 as a multicultural food hall. Today it combines fresh-produce stalls with street kitchens — couscous, tagines, bentos, artisan sandwiches — in a covered space that works in any weather.
What to eat
Each stall has its own menu and shared tables. Reference prices: couscous/tagine €12–€16; Alain sandwich €10–€14; Japanese bento €14–€18. Order at the counter, wait to be called and share space with other diners.
Stalls worth trying:
Le Traiteur Marocain — generous couscous and tagines in clay pots, mint tea. Constant queues but they move fast. Most popular lunch option in the market.
Chez Alain Miam Miam — monumental sandwiches: organic bread, blowtorched melted cheese, ham, grilled vegetables. Performance and food — Alain builds the sandwich in front of you.
Taeko (Japanese) — bentos, crisp tempura, miso-grilled fish. Lighter option if you prefer to avoid heavy couscous or sandwiches.
Cheese, wine and oysters — build your lunch at product stalls: Brittany oysters, artisan cheese, baguette and white wine by the glass. Good for groups with different preferences.
Beyond these: Italian stalls, French fresh produce and vegetarian options by season. Rue de Bretagne outside the market has patisseries and fromageries — Jacques Genin, Yann Couvreur — for dessert after lunch.
Practical information
| Item | Practical information (2026) |
|---|---|
| Address | 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris, France (Haut Marais). |
| How to get there (Metro) | Stations Filles du Calvaire or Sébastien Froissart (Line 8), or Temple (Line 3). All about 3–5 minutes' walk. |
| Opening hours | Tuesday to Saturday 8:30–20:30; Sunday 8:30–17:00. Closed Monday. |
| Average price | Couscous/tagine plate: €12–€16; Alain sandwich: €10–€14; Japanese bento: €14–€18. |
| Reservations | No reservations. First come, first served at all stalls. Shared courtyard tables. |
Practical tips
The market fills at classic lunch hours — choose your timing:
Best time: Tuesday to Thursday 11:45 or after 14:30. Sunday lunch is packed — avoid if possible. Closed Monday.
Shared tables: Each stall has courtyard tables. Order at the counter, wait for your number and sit where there is space — conviviality is part of the experience.
Rain: Covered market — works in any weather. Outdoor tables get tighter when it rains.
Route tip: Lunch here then visit the Picasso Museum (5 min) or walk to Place des Vosges with L'Ambroisie under the arcades — informal lunch versus haute cuisine in the same neighbourhood.
Frequently asked questions
1. Does it work in the rain?
Yes — covered market. Outdoor patio tables may be tighter but stalls operate normally.
2. Can I reserve a table?
No. First come, first served at all stalls. Arrive early or outside peak (12:30–14:00) for easier seating.
3. Is the market accessible?
Flat entrance, but narrow aisles at peak times. Wheelchairs enter but manoeuvring between full tables can be difficult.
Combine with guides on this site
To keep exploring on this site, these guides pair well with this article: Le Marais, L\'Ambroisie and Ritz Paris.
Editorial note: prices, opening hours and booking conditions in this guide are references checked against official and institutional sources in July 2026. Confirm on the official website before your visit, as details may change.