Le Comptoir du Relais occupies the ground floor of the Hotel Relais Saint-Germain at Carrefour de l\\\\'Odéon — the square where the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés converge, in the 6th arrondissement. It is a classic French bistro with refined technique, in the style known as bistronomie: traditional dishes done well, neighbourhood-bistro atmosphere, and prices below the big starred restaurants. In 2026 the dining room is still small — tight wooden tables, brisk service, lively noise — and demand remains high. Lunch and weekends are walk-in only: expect a queue on the pavement. Monday-to-Friday dinner is a fixed tasting menu that requires a phone call weeks ahead. Plan accordingly.
Yves Camdeborde and bistronomie
Chef Yves Camdeborde helped popularise bistronomie in the 1990s after training in top kitchens including the Hôtel de Crillon. The idea was to apply haute-cuisine technique in a neighbourhood bistro, with good produce and prices well below the grand palaces on the Right Bank. Camdeborde opened La Régalade in 1992 and Le Comptoir du Relais in 2004, in the same building as the hotel. He no longer cooks in the dining room daily, but the kitchen still focuses on artisan suppliers — cheeses from Marie-Anne Cantin, Basque charcuterie from Christian Parra, meat and vegetables from selected producers. The term bistronomie spread across Paris and beyond, but the Comptoir remains a reference address for the movement, especially if you want classic cooking without three-star protocol.
What to order
At lunch the menu is à la carte and changes with the season and market supply. Starters typically run €12–€22; mains €24–€38; desserts around €10. There is also a quick set lunch (€35–€45). Weekends are à la carte but still no reservations — the queue can be long. Monday-to-Friday dinner switches format: one fixed tasting menu, no dish choices, roughly €75–€95 (drinks extra).
Several dishes appear regularly and are worth ordering if they are on the day\\\\'s menu:
Tête de Veau Ravigote — slowly braised veal head, served cold or warm with ravigote sauce (vinegar, mustard, herbs, capers). Gelatinous texture, mild flavour. A classic French dish that few restaurants still serve; here it is treated with proper technique, not as a novelty.
Os à Moelle Grillé aux Épices — grilled beef marrow bone, served split lengthwise. Spread on toasted bread with fleur de sel. Generous portion, rich and unctuous. One of the most ordered dishes among regulars.
Boudin Noir de chez Christian Parra — Basque blood sausage, lighter than the traditional version, with buttery mashed potato. The recipe comes from charcutier Christian Parra, a regular supplier to the kitchen.
Plateau de Fromages — a selection from fromagerie Marie-Anne Cantin, served at the right stage of ripeness (affinage). May include Loire goat cheeses, aged Comté or Roquefort depending on availability. A good way to finish the meal — and pairs well with an afternoon at the Musée de l'Orangerie, about 15 minutes\\\\' walk along the Seine.
Beyond these, the menu usually offers seasonal starters (asparagus in spring, mushrooms in autumn), game in winter, and fish of the day when the market is good. Ask your waiter what arrived fresh.
Practical Visitor Guide (2026 Edition)
| Item | Practical Information (2026) |
|---|---|
| Address | 9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France. |
| How to Get There (Metro) | Odéon Station (Lines 4 and 10). When you leave, the restaurant will be less than 50 meters from the main square. |
| Opening Hours | Daily, from 12pm to 11pm (continuous service for quick meals and drinks at the counter). Formal lunch from 12:00 pm to 2:30 pm; Dinner from 6:00 pm to 10:30 pm. Only closed on specific year-end holidays. |
| Average Price | At lunch (à la carte): starters from €12 to €22, main courses from €24 to €38, desserts from €10. Quick executive lunch menu: €35–€45. For dinner (tasting menu from Monday to Friday): approximately €75–€95 per person (drinks not included). |
| How to Book | At lunch and on weekends:Reservations are not accepted (queue on a first-come, first-served basis). For dinner from Monday to Friday: Reservation exclusively by telephone by calling +33 (0)1 44 27 07 97 (call at least 4 to 6 weeks in advance). Customers staying at the Hotel Relais Saint-Germain have priority for table reservations. |
Practical tips
With no lunch reservations, the queue is part of the experience. To get the first seating (service opens at noon), arrive between 11:15 and 11:30. For a shorter wait, try after 2:15 pm when the first wave is finishing. Weekend queues tend to be longer — consider Friday lunch or accept the wait.
Dress code: no formal dress code. Dark jeans, a casual shirt or blouse, and comfortable shoes are fine. The room is lively, not hushed.
Where to stay: guests at the Hotel Relais Saint-Germain (same building) get priority for dinner reservations. If you are planning to stay in the neighbourhood, also compare the Hôtel Henri IV, a few minutes from the square, with rooms facing the Louvre and the Seine.
L'Avant Comptoir: if the Comptoir queue is too long or you want something quicker, L'Avant Comptoir — a standing wine and tapas bar from the same group, on the corner — operates without reservations. Short menu of charcuterie, oysters and small plates, with natural wines by the glass.
Route tip: after your visit, use the internal guides below to plan the rest of the day without leaving this site.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Can I reserve a table for lunch or on weekends?
No. Le Comptoir du Relais does not take reservations for lunch (Monday to Sunday) or for weekend service. Tables are first-come, first-served in the queue. Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before opening for a better chance at the first seating.
2. What's the secret to getting a dinner reservation this week?
Call exactly one month before your desired date, from 9:00 am Paris time, on +33 (0)1 44 27 07 97. The room is small and slots fill fast. Guests at the Hotel Relais Saint-Germain, in the same building, can access a priority reservation quota through the concierge.
3. Does the dinner tasting menu accommodate dietary restrictions?
Dinner is a fixed surprise menu with little room for last-minute changes. State allergies or restrictions when you book by phone. Vegetarians and vegans usually find more options at the à la carte lunch than at the closed dinner menu.
Combine with guides on this site
To keep exploring on this site, these guides pair well with this article: Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Musée de l'Orangerie and Hôtel Henri IV.
Editorial note: prices, opening hours and booking conditions in this guide are references checked against official and institutional sources in July 2026. Confirm on the official website before your visit, as details may change.